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Your bike is essentially a
high-performance vehicle. With proper attention to a few basics, it will give you years of
fun.
The following items are very
important to your bike's well-being:
#1: Proper tire pressure
#2: Ride carefully
#3:
Chain cleaning & Derailleur maintenance
#4: Avoid "slam" and
"cross-shifting"
#5: Learn how to use
"Quick-Release" wheels
#6: Don't miss your bike's "30-day check"
#1:
Proper tire pressure
Proper tire pressure is very important! Too little air in your tires greatly
increases the likelihood of getting "compression cuts", which are caused by
bottoming out the tire on the rim when hitting a bump. These punctures are easily
identified by the type of damage to the tube: a thin slit (sometimes two parallel slits)
running lengthwise along the tube. Too low pressure also greatly increases rolling
resistance, meaning that you have to pedal a lot harder to go the same speed. In addition,
since air literally cushions your bike's components, low tire pressure accelerates wear
and tear on your frame, fork and wheel parts. Too much pressure may cause the tire to want
to blow off the rim as well as giving you a harsh ride.
Run your tires at the pressure
rating listed on the sidewall of the tire. Unlike mountain bikes, road bike tires have a
narrow range of acceptable pressure, making it essential that you check for the right
amount of air before every ride! Use either a separate pressure gauge ($3.95-$14.95) or a
pump with a built-in gauge (either the extremely-versatile Blackburn TP3 at $40 or the
TREK for about $30 are highly recommended and nearly bullet-proof).
#2:
Ride carefully
Most damage to tires, tubes
and rims can be avoided if the rider is careful about how and where the bike is
ridden.
In a world seemingly full of
broken glass and potholes, it's important to keep a vigilant eye on the road ahead.
Constantly scan the road in front of you, both for moving hazards (cars, dogs, people) as
well as less-obvious things like new patches of pavement, which frequently are either
sunken or raised (but may not look that way). Also, develop a very healthy respect of
railroad tracks (especially when wet!). It is unbelievably easy for road-bike tires to
turn into the slot next to the rail and bring you to a head-first stop. As for glass (and
any other sharp objects you might run over), if you can't avoid it, immediately check your
tires both visually and by spinning it while running your hand over the top of it. Skilled
riders are sometimes able to "glove" a tire (scraping it with a gloved hand)
while riding, but this can be quite dangerous as it requires a high degree of skill and
control.
#3: A
clean and lubed chain is a requirement for proper shifting performance!
Especially
with the new Hyperglide shifting systems, it is essential to keep your chain clean and
lubed...something far too few people bother with. A clean chain shifts better, runs
quieter, and is much less likely to jam than a dirty one. Cleaning your chain (as well as
the freewheel cogs at the back and the chainrings in the front) requires the use of a
solvent, usually brushed or sprayed on, to remove the grime and grit. After the chain
dries, it should be lubricated with something like Tri-flow or, better yet, one of the new
synthetic-wax lubes like Allsop, which attract much less dirt.
Besides cleaning and lubrication,
it's also essential to make sure your gears remain properly adjusted. If you continue to
ride a bicycle that exhibits problems while shifting, it's quite possible that you may
experience a broken chain or even the failure of the part of the frame that connects to
the rear derailleur. Bring the bike back to the shop for adjustment as quickly as possible
so that small problems may be easily corrected, instead of becoming bigger problems.
#4:
Shifting Technique
With the advent of Hyperglide derailleurs, it is now possible
to shift under pressure and still be certain of a clean shift. This is great for those
times you get into trouble and don't have a chance to ease off on the pedals and shift
"properly." However, "slam" or "power-shifting" is very hard
on your chain and cogs, and greatly increases the likelihood of bent chainrings, broken
chains and "chain suck." When you need to shift in a hurry, it'll perform
flawlessly for you, but when possible, be kind to your bike and ease off on the pedals
while shifting.
Also, when the chain is on the
largest rear cog and the largest front sprocket, avoid shifting the front derailleur! We
call this "cross-shifting", and it invites the possibility of throwing the chain
off the front chainring and onto the frame. If possible, shift the rear derailleur to a
smaller cog first and then shift the front, or, better yet, don't ride in the
large-front/large-rear combination in the first place.
Finally, chains don't last forever
and require replacement every 1200-2000 miles or so. If you keep riding with a worn chain,
you can do serious damage to your rear cogs and dramatically affect shifting efficiency.
#5: Learn how
"Quick-Release" wheels operate
Nearly all bikes are now equipped with special "quick-release" devices which
enable you to easily remove and install the wheels without use of any tools.
While these "quick-releases" are incredibly handy, they can also be the source
of major trouble if improperly used. Improper use of "quick-release" wheels can,
in some cases, result in the loss of a wheel while riding. On the other hand,
when used properly, this type of wheel retention method is one of the most
reliable devices you'll encounter. They virtually never fail or cause trouble
unless improperly used.
If you ever have any questions
about how "quick-releases" work, please ask for a demonstration. . Training Ride
leaders and experienced AIDS Riders will be more than happy to demonstrate how to properly
use "quick releases".
#6:
30-Day Check
Just like a new car, it's important to bring in your bike for a
complete check and adjustment during the first 30-60 days. During this break-in period,
your bike's bearings may loosen slightly, and brake & gear cables will stretch.
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